For the next course, Achatz came back with the rest of that hen. The legs were deboned — and stuffed with mushroom duxelle and covered with a veal glace — but still had their claws attached, which were pointing at my face, threateningly, in a way that let me know this was from another time, when, apparently, people didn’t mind having chicken claws pointing at their face. The plate also featured some roasted oyster mushrooms and pommes puree. Those mashed potatoes, as per Escoffier, had more butter (1.5 lbs.) than potatoes (1 lb.). Technically, I was eating mashed butter.
I spend a lot of time lately, thinking about stuff like this.